Osso Buco : <i> Who would have thought that this would turn out to be one of the trendiest dishes of the ‘80s? </i>

Buon Gusto, 3110 Main St., Santa Monica. (213) 452-4288. Style: Charming neighborhood spot with a mainstream modern L.A.-Italian menu. Setting: Pilasters, posters, paintings and a precious patio. Recommended : Osso buco, $13.

Chapo, 7661 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 655-2924. Style: Tip your hat to this quirky Franco-Mediterranean spot. Setting: Sleek and sassy. Recommended : Osso buco , $13.50.

Da Pasquale, 9749 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 859-3884. Style: Beverly Hills’ best cheap restaurant. Setting: Tight-squeeze coffee shop. Recommended : Osso buco, $9.50.

Marinela, 13181 Mindanao Way, Marina del Rey. (213) 821-8866. Style: Mediterranean for oceanic gazers and grazers. Setting: Sun-bleached boaty. Recommended : Osso buco , $16.50.