Restaurants : A Taste of Japan : <i> Care to nosh on Nippon? </i>

Ginza Sushi-Ko, 3959 Wilshire Blvd., A-11, Los Angeles. (213) 487-2251. Style: L.A.’s most expensive sushi bar, popular with Japanese businessmen. Setting: Anonymous. Recommended dishes: No menu, just put yourself in chef’s hands. Cost per person: $100 plus.

Greco, 366 E. 2nd St., Los Angeles (in Brunswig Square, Little Tokyo). (213) 626-5270. Style: Lunch on Western fare served with Japanese flair. Setting: Luxurious. Arches and pillars, pale banquettes, and Sasaki china and silver. Recommended dishes: Fried seafood (shrimp, scallops and fish); pork loin steak, hamburger, served Japanese style (on toasted white bread). Cost: $10-$20.

Mitsuru Sushi and Grill, 316 E. First Street, Los Angeles. (213) 626-4046. Style: Friendly dive, half grill and half drugstore. Where else can you eat sushi and have your prescription filled? Setting: Twilight Zone. Recommended dishes: Wiener Omelet, Tuna Teriyaki, BLT. Ask to see the sushi picture menu. Cost: $4-$8.

Mon Japanese, 19463 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana. (818) 342-0307. Style: Generic Japanese dining, family-style. Setting: Grass-cloth walls, paper lanterns. Recommended dishes: California roll, samurai boat dinner (beef and chicken teriyaki, sashimi, tempura, fruit and green tea ice cream). Cost: $10-$40.

Robata, 250 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 274-5533. Style: Lap of luxury with prices to match. Setting: Spare and elegant. Recommended dishes: Offers either 10-course or 12-course meals. Cost: $50 for 10-course or $70 for 12 course.