In the Mood / Oysters

What are Kumamotos, Fanny Bays, Totten Inlets, Hog Islands and Hama Hamas? Why, one of life’s great pleasures. . . .

* McCormick & Schmick’s: Six or seven varieties of fresh oysters come in daily. Order them by the half dozen or dozen, or try a sampler plate (one of each kind, $8.60; two of each, $17). Served with cocktail sauce, horseradish and lemon. McCormick & Schmick’s, 633 W. 5th St., 4th floor, Los Angeles, (213) 629-1929; Two Rodeo, 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 859-0434.

* The Pinots: Probably the best oyster bargain is at all four Pinots, where you can order six to seven varieties singly ($1.10-$1.50) or by the half dozen ($6.60-$7.75) or dozen ($13.20-$13.50). Served with a pepper mignonette. Pinot at the Chronicle, 897 Granite Drive, Pasadena, (818) 792-1179; Pinot Bistro, 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500; Pinot Hollywood, 1448 N. Gower St., Hollywood, (213) 461-8800; Cafe Pinot, 700 W. 5th St., Los Angeles, (213) 239-6500.

* Ocean Ave. Seafood: Don’t miss “Oyster Sunset Hour” (4-7 p.m. weekdays, 3-6 p.m. weekends), when the featured oyster sells for 60 cents each. Six or seven varieties change daily. Sold by the quarter, half and full dozen ($4.50-$19.95) and by sampler plates ($10.95 and $21.95). Ocean Ave. Seafood, 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 394-5669.

* Water Grill: Seven kinds of fresh oysters are usually available here by the quarter, half and full dozen ($5.25, 10.25, $19.50; Belons slightly higher) or by the eight-oyster sampler plate ($12.75). Served with fresh grated horseradish and black-pepper-and-currant mignonette. Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.

* Michael’s: Five to eight varieties, including tiny, sweet Olympias and Kumamotos, are served with a sherry-and-shallot vinaigrette. The chef frequently grills good plump Belons, Fanny Bays or Pearl Bays in the shell and serves them with garlic-basil butter ($12). Michael’s, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* Granita: The most beautiful and unusual oyster presentation: six Washington State Sisters Point oysters topped with a tiny scoop of icy celery-green apple granita ($12). Eat fast, before it melts. Granita, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu, (310) 456-0488.

* Buffalo Club: Great oyster shooters, each with different sauces: tomatillo-cilantro, wasabi-caviar, tomato-horseradish and a pristine ponzu ($10). Buffalo Club, 1520 Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 450-8600.

* Pine Avenue Fish House: Six to seven varieties daily, shucked to order. Served by the quarter, half and full dozen ($4, $7.95, $16) with cocktail sauce and horseradish. Pine Avenue Fish House, 100 W. Broadway, Long Beach, (310) 432-7463.