When Life Hands You Lemons, Bake

My cooking may be simpler and lighter, my entertaining style less formal than in years past, but make no mistake about it: Desserts still have a special place at my table.

Today I use much less butter and cream in my cooking, many more herbs, spices and peppers and lots of seafood, poultry, fruits and vegetables. My menus are more streamlined with fewer courses and dishes.

With this in mind--and perhaps because of it--there’s no way I will sacrifice something sweet and satisfying at the end of the meal. Lemon desserts make up one of my favorite categories; they seem perfect in spring and summer. Bright, tangy and refreshing, lemon desserts are versatile, giving a boost to almost any menu.

Lemon Cheesecake with Gingered Crust

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours, then refrigerate overnight

CRUST

2 cups finely ground gingersnap crumbs

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

5 tablespoons butter, melted

3 tablespoons sugar

* Grind gingersnap crumbs, ginger root, melted butter and sugar in food processor until mixed. Press crumbs evenly in bottom and part way up sides of lightly greased 9-inch springform pan, set on baking sheet and lined with greased circle of parchment paper or foil.

* Bake at 350 degrees on center rack until fragrant and slightly darker, about 10 minutes. Cool completely on rack.

FILLING

1 cup sugar

Zest of 2 large lemons, about 2 tablespoons

4 eggs, separated

2 (8-ounce) packages light cream cheese at room temperature, quartered

3/4 cup light sour cream

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon lemon extract

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

* Process sugar with zest in food processor until finely minced, about 30 seconds. Add egg yolks and process until light and foamy, about 2 minutes. Add cream cheese. Pulse to break up, then process until smooth, about 20 seconds. Add sour cream, lemon juice, flour, lemon extract, vanilla extract and salt. Pulse until mixed.

* Beat egg whites until they hold their shape but are still moist. Stir 1/4 of egg whites into cheese mixture. Pour mixture into egg whites; use rubber spatula to fold in whites. (Some streaks of egg white may still be visible.) Pour over cooled crust.

* Bake at 225 degrees until edges are puffed and only center is slightly jiggly, about 1 1/2 hours. Turn off oven. Leave cake in oven 45 minutes.

TOPPING

1 cup light sour cream

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

* Mix sour cream, sugar and vanilla extract and gently spread over warm cake. Leave cake in turned-off oven 5 more minutes. Cool on rack. Refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.

* Use sharp paring knife to release cake from sides of pan. Remove ring. Separate cake from pan, paper and foil. Place on platter. Serve chilled, using long sharp knife dipped into hot water to make cleanly cut wedges.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 12 servings: 388 calories; 406 mg sodium; 120 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

Lemon Shortbread Bar Cookies

These are ideal with sorbets and fresh fruit.

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

BARS

1 cup sugar

Zest of 2 lemons, about 2 tablespoons

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature

2 egg yolks

2 cups cake flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

* Process sugar and zest in food processor until finely minced, about 30 seconds. Add butter. Pulse to break up, then mix until light and fluffy, about 30 seconds. Add yolks. Mix well. Add flour and salt. Pulse until just combined, scraping bowl once. Do not over-process. Transfer to greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Through piece of plastic wrap, use hands to press dough evenly in pan.

* Bake at 350 degrees until edges are light brown and top is golden, about 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on rack 20 minutes. While still slightly warm, cut bars. Cool completely before glazing.

GLAZE

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted

3 tablespoons lemon juice

* Mix powdered sugar and lemon juice until smooth. Pour over cooled bars. When glaze is firm, store cookies in airtight container up to 5 days.

48 (2x1-inch) bars. Each bar: 79 calories; 13 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Chilled Lemon Custard Cake

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 9 hours

CAKE

If you can’t find orange chiffon cake, use all angel food cake.

1 (1/4-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin

1/2 cup cold water

1 1/4 cups sugar

Zest of 3 lemons, about 3 tablespoons

6 eggs, separated

1 cup lemon juice (about 4 large lemons)

1/4 cup orange juice

1/3 store-bought orange chiffon cake

1/3 store-bought angel food cake

* Stir gelatin into cold water; set aside.

* Process sugar and zest in food processor until zest is minced, about 30 seconds.

* Whisk sugar mixture, yolks, lemon juice and orange juice in top of double boiler over, but not touching, simmering water until combined. Stir constantly with wooden spoon until custard thickens slightly and coats back of spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to large bowl. Stir in gelatin. Set custard aside to cool.

* Whip egg whites until soft, moist peaks form. Fold 1/4 of whites into custard, then fold in remaining whites.

* Trim dark edges from cakes and tear into 3/4-inch pieces, about 5 cups. Pour custard over cake pieces. Gently toss until pieces are completely coated.

* Spread evenly in lightly greased 9-inch springform pan lined with circle of greased parchment paper or foil. Bang pan on counter to settle mixture. Cover top with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.

* Use small paring knife to separate cake from sides of springform pan. Remove ring. Separate cake from bottom. Carefully remove parchment or foil; transfer cake to platter using spatula.

WHIPPED CREAM TOPPING

1 cup whipping cream, chilled

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

* Whip cream and sugar until thick. Stir in vanilla. Use spatula to cover top and sides of cake with cream. Can be refrigerated several hours. Serve chilled.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 12 servings: 327 calories; 231 mg sodium; 145 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

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Note: Although many recipes call for uncooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found them to be a potential carrier of food-borne illness and recommends avoiding raw eggs.