Pastapalooza

Gio Cucina Napoletana

Despite the easy-to-miss location -- the second floor of a strip mall overlooking a Land Rover dealership -- this modest trattoria has attracted a loyal following, and for good reason: The prices are reasonable, the tortelloni filled with buttery pumpkin puree are satisfying, and the service is friendly, if a little slow at times.

* Pasta, $8.25 to $10.50. 15826 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 905-7446.

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Angelini Osteria

It’s hard to decide which is better: chef Gino Angelini’s rendition of his grandmother Elvira’s lasagna -- a glorious assemblage of homemade spinach pasta, bechamel and beef and veal ragu -- or his classic bombolotti all’amatriciana, squat pasta tubes napped in an irresistible smoky, peppery tomato sauce. The good news is you really can’t go wrong.

* Pasta, $13 to $15. 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A.; (323) 297-0070.

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Sapori

Warm and unpretentious, this attractive O.C. favorite serves up some 15 pastas. The signature dish is penne otero: quill-shaped pasta in a tomato cream sauce accented with bacon and fresh tarragon. But you’ll find classics as well, such as spaghetti and meatballs and linguine with clams.

* Pasta, $14.95 to $16.95. 1080 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach; (949) 644-4220.

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Capri

Among the popular choices at this easy, breezy spot are homemade ravioli filled with a spinach and goat cheese blend and finished with a simple marinara sauce, fresh fettuccine tricked out with wild mushrooms, and pumpkin ravioli in a light sage sauce. No wonder vegetarians flock here. Of course, the kitchen also turns out a fine bolognese, here served over wide pappardelle noodles.

* Pasta, $10 to $14. 1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 392-8777.

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Enoteca Drago

This year-old Italian wine bar and restaurant, from restaurateur Celestino Drago, offers seldom-

seen classics such as spaghetti cacio e pepe (spaghetti with pecorino cheese and freshly ground pepper) and malloreddus sardi al ragu d’agnello, a Sardinian recipe of ear-shaped pasta in a stick-to-your-ribs lamb ragu. But in cold weather, we can’t resist the spaghetti alla carbonara, the ultimate in Italian comfort food.

* Pasta, $12.50 to $16. 410 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 786-8236.

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-- Leslee Komaiko