2004 Domaine de la Lalande Macon-Chaintre Macon-Villages

Burgundy is a minefield. Just when you think you know a little something about the appellation, a bottle that by rights should be terrific isn’t. Or, more happily, something from a minor appellation outperforms its category. That’s the case with this Macon-Villages from producer Dominique Cornin. Made from grapes grown in the village of Macon-Chaintre and fermented in enamel-lined tanks, this is quite a Chardonnay for the price -- a supple, delicious wine that tastes so alive you can practically feel the sun freckling the grape.

When you’re in the mood for a Chardonnay that will marry beautifully with food without breaking the bank, this is the one.

It makes a lovely summer aperitif and will show off crab, shrimp, scallops or just about any other seafood. It’s also the ticket with whole grilled fish.

*

Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $14

Style: Supple and aromatic

Food it goes with: Seafood

Where you find it: Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Topline Wine & Spirits in Glendale, (818) 500-9670; Wally’s Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; the Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila