Photos: Trends from Paris Fashion Week Menswear Spring / Summer 2011
Blue, traditionally a popular color in menswear (because it sells well) went vivid this season. The ranks of navy blues were joined by nearly electric hues both in Milan (Prada, Dsquared and Roberto Cavalli, to name three) and Paris, where Viktor & Rolf Monsieur, pictured, brightened an otherwise muted palette with pops of turquoise on plaid and allover patterned shirts, on shoes and on belts. (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)
By Adam Tschorn, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
While the recently concluded Milan menswear shows were nearly universal in going for the light — the easy, breezy fabrics, the white and sun-bleached khaki colorways, and the notion of traveling unencumbered — there was no such unifying theme to come out of the runways in Paris. But there were some noteworthy trends that rippled through last month’s disparate collections of menswear that will probably be seen on the streets when these designer collections hit retail nine months from now. Among them:
Yohji Yamamoto”> gave us a completely head-to-toe powder-blue boy -- from unstructured jacket and floppy bow at the neck all the way down to matching socks and shoes. (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)
Adam Kimmel’s
Louis Vuitton’s “digital bohemian”-themed collection, pictured, put tattoo-blue designs (including animal symbols from the Chinese zodiac) interpreted by
Vivienne Westwood seemed to be in her own orbit with starscape spangled jeans, jackets, T-shirts and swim trunks in Milan, but after seeing Thom Browne’s space odyssey, pictured, and Paul Smith’s “cosmic rocker” collection in Paris, there was definitely a sense that some designers were headed into outer space for spring-summer 2011. (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)
Advertisement
![Space trippy](https://ca-times.brightspotcdn.com/dims4/default/57849c9/2147483647/strip/true/crop/300x450+0+0/resize/300x450!/quality/75/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fcalifornia-times-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F95%2Fad%2Fb79e64f5939f92fcf1feaa891208%2Fla-ig-paris-l4ue4cnc.jpg)
Paul Smith, pictured, who cited the band
Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, pictured, was themed like a scene out of a Turkish bath, but the planets seemed aligned for a solar system’s worth of billowing silk ponchos, robes, denim jackets and jeans with crescent moons, falling stars and orbiting planets leaping out of three-dimensional designs (provided the audience was wearing its show invites — which were printed on pairs of disposable 3-D glasses). (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)
Maybe it’s the natural progression of the whole urban woodsman trend, or simply shorthand for the new dapper disheveled aesthetic, but there were noticeably more mustachioed models and beard-bearing boys on the runway than for any season in recent memory.
Shaggy models strode the runway at Bottega Veneta in Milan, Jean Paul Gaultier and Paul Smith, pictured, in Paris. (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)
And for Yohji Yamamoto’s return to the Paris runway circuit after two seasons of appointment showing, he included a handful of models who looked like they hadn’t shaved since the designer’s last runway show, with one redheaded model sporting a glorious walrus-like cookie duster that made him easy to spot at a handful of other subsequent shows, including Paul Smith and Junya Watanabe Homme Plus, pictured. (Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)