Wine review: 2012 Tenuta Sarno ‘1860’ Fiano di Avellino

Southern Italian wines are just beginning to get their due. It’s been a long time coming. And the whites are less known than the sturdy reds. This Fiano di Avellino, a white from Tenuta Sarno in Campania (Naples is its capital) is a real stunner. I’ve always loved Fiano: This one is top of the class, with a deep minerality and complex flavors of quince, pears and almonds, it is brilliant with seafood.

Have it with a grilled lobster or a thick swordfish steak, with Santa Barbara spot prawns or steamed shellfish.

It’s a great wine and should be saved for a special occasion. And if you have the time and the will, these whites will deepen with a year or two’s aging.

Region: Campania, Italy

Price: About $25

Style: Power and finesse

What it goes with: Lobster, swordfish, grilled shrimp, shellfish

Where to find it: BestWinesOnline, (888) 817-8880, www.bestwinesonline.com; K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; and Wally’s Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine.com.

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