Jonathan Gold reviews Rossoblu

Roasted suckling pig. Pick your part: rib, shoulder, leg or head.

Nonna’s tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese with beef, pork and not too much tomato sauce.

Labrusca on the bar counter at Rossoblu.

Chef Steve Samson in the kitchen at Rossoblu.

Coal-roasted vegetables with sea salt and olive oil.

Ilario’s Grigliata: house sausage, pork porterhouse, pork jus and a glass of Labrusca.

Chef Steve Samson grills a pork porterhouse at Rossoblu.

Patrons line the bar area at Rossoblu.

The view of the interior at Rossoblu in downtown L.A.

The mural at Rossoblu is an eye-grabber.

The dining room at Rossoblu.

Vegetables and rib-eye steaks are cooked over the coals at Rossoblu.