Palate Food + Wine in Glendale

A dining area in Palate Food + Wine in Glendale. The restaurant is nestled among car dealerships.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Diners at one of the communal tables.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Palate Food + Wine chef-owner Octavio Becerra, with his Japanese knife tattoo, puts the finishing touches on a dish.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Fromager Serafina Magnussen in the cheese cave at Palate Food + Wine in Glendale.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Pork belly, plums, dandelion greens and barley.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

DG rabbit, grits and Concord grapes.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)