GoKo Cafe offers East Mediterranean and American Fare

Glori Fickling

At GoKo Cafe, menus are posted everywhere, from outside the door to

all over the interior of this casual little storefront respite ...

and with good reason.

The bill of fare for this friendly mom and pop establishment is so

extensive it usually takes novices some time to decide what to order

from among the scads of traditional and international breakfast

choices, the plethora of sandwiches, salads, snacks and beverages. It

is immediately evident, however, that every item noted promotes a

decidedly healthful approach to eating as promised with the words,

“fresh, healthy, natural, homemade.”

For example, there are fresh-squeezed juices of carrot, apple and

citrus fruits and such diverse vegetable blends as carrot, apple,

ginger or spinach, parsley, zucchini, celery, cucumber, lettuce,

garlic and ginger. Organic brown rice, a generous assortment of fresh

vegetables and other all natural ingredients are an integral part of

many dishes, which has made this a local favorite since 1993.

Especially interesting among the multitude of diversified

selections created by owner/chef Connie Stozkoski with her mother

Maria are family recipes of their Macedonia origin. These delicacies,

served with the help of husband, George, are prepared each morning in

the cafe’s tidy rear kitchen.

Titled “Incredible Edibles” are such taste treats as dolmades,

teracopita, tabbouleh and hummus. Falafels are the most crisply

crusted little garbanzo bean mounds of my encounter. Tzaziki, which

is offered as a delectably creamy cold soup and an irresistible side

for plump stuffed grape leaves, flaky rectangles of spinach/cheese

pie and the pita bread wedges which accompany these flavorful dishes.

A nice introduction to the half dozen selections is the Mediterranean

Palette, five assorted dishes accented with Kalamata olives and feta

cheese sprinkles framed with large romaine leaves on colorful

California pottery plates, all for a mere $7.95.

Among a dozen salads at $4.95 to $6.50 comes the energizing

combination of lettuces accented with beets, carrots, zucchini,

broccoli, cauliflower, tomato, cucumber, avocado, alfalfa sprouts and

crunchy sunflower seeds. There are also the traditional Caesar, Cobb,

spinach, fresh fruit and Greek salads. Each comes with a choice of

five zesty dressings, lemon herb, Italian, ranch, bleu cheese and

tahini.

The soup du jour and a veggie flecked lentil blend are $1.75 a

cup, $3.25 a bowl. Pastrami, chicken breast, BLT and French dips are

among hot sandwiches; roast beef, salami/provolone and tuna are among

cold choices served on a French roll, sourdough, squaw, rye or wheat

breads at $4.50 to $5.95.

Whether you settle in one of the two upholstered booths, at a

whimsically decorated table, or step outside for a refreshing

alfresco repast, it is imperative that you sample the luscious Gelato

Classico ice creams exclusive in this area to GoKo Cafe. Double

espresso and straciatelli are but two of the 20 creamy flavors

displayed at the rear where original paintings by local artists are

displayed along with ceiling-mounted surfboards and a thatched roof

entry to the kitchen.

NEWS BITES

Spectacular is the operative word for last Saturday’s Lost Vegas

fundraiser benefiting the AIDS Services Foundation of Orange County

at Laguna’s Sundried Tomato Cafe.

The evening commenced with appetizers and cocktails, while guests

placed bets at gaming tables and perused the amazing contributions of

assorted silent auction items.

The dinner continued as owner/chef Mark Jacobi’s elegant buffet

presentations were perfectly arranged at six separate stations

precluding any wait for the hungry entourage. Entrees of pork

tenderloin with pan Asian chipotle and boneless breast of chicken,

wrapping spinach and mascarpone cheese in champagne cream sauce were

complemented deliciously with minted couscous.

Salads included a jalapeno dressed three-bean presentation; roma

tomatoes/cucumber in lemon dill vinaigrette, red slaw/onion/fennel in

mustard seed vinaigrette and classic Caesar. Desserts of grainy

textured polenta pudding crowned with fresh berries in maple

mascarpone creme en glasse were picturesquely arranged at each place

setting to welcome arriving diners. Phone (949) 661-1299.

If you missed the latter memorable dining experience last week,

principal Mark Jacobi announced that seating is still available for

the Saturday cheese dinner he has designed at Sundried Tomato in

conjunction with Laguna Culinary Arts.

The five-course repast is to be launched with cheese and Spanish

sparkling “cava” wine. It will feature a filet mignon entree and

fresh fruit/cheese finale. Complementing the event will be commentary

by Laguna Culinary Arts’ James Drake, who will describe the various

cheeses. Mark Jacobi will detail the evening’s recipes. Cost is $55

for dinner, $75 with accompanying wines. Phone: (949) 494-3312 or

(949) 494-0745.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].